Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Swakopmund, Namibia
Walvis Bay/Swakopmund, Namibia
Hello from Namibia!! It is a great country! I am having such a great time. I did my first Semester At Sea trips here, and I loved them. We arrived in Walvis Bay at 8 a.m. and were welcomed by a singing and dancing troupe of girls. It takes awhile to clear all of our passports, so these girls gave us a concert. They were between 6 and 12 or 13 years old, and were mostly orphans. They performed for about an hour on the dock, a combination of singing, drumming, clapping, and dancing. Afterward, they got a tour of our ship, but I was long gone by then. I had a city orientation of Swakopmund. It is a 20 minute drive from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund. There were 3 busses that were doing the city orientation, and somehow my good friend Isaiah and I were the only two students who managed to get on the professor/lifelong learner bus. It was interesting, their adult jokes were kind of strange… but they thought they were funny! Isaiah and I had a really good time though. The road is a two lane stretch that hugs the coastline. Going north, if you look left you see the ocean and beautiful beaches, then looking right you see an ocean of sand. It is amazing to see the dichotomy between an ocean filled with waves of water being infringed upon by waves of desert sand.
The town of Swakopmund is a small town of about 30,000 founded by the Germans in 1892. Namibia was a German colony until the end of WWI, and then came under South African rule. Namibia gained independence from South Africa in 1990, shortly after Nelson Mandela was released from prison and became president. You can still see the German influence on the town, especially in the architecture. The buildings are beautiful. Swakopmund was the port town for the Germans because Walvis Bay was British. When the British relinquished control, the economy of Swakopmund briefly crashed because the port closed; however, it is now a bustling city again. My city orientation began at 10 am, and we went to a number of destinations in Swakopmund learning about the history and culture. Our first stop was the Karakulia Weaving Center, where we saw Namibians making tapestries and rugs. The entire process was done by hand; first spinning and dying wool into colored yarn, then drawing and weaving a design. The designs were very intricate, and often reflected African designs or wild animals. The tapestries are made by hand weaving sections of wool and then tying them off. After a tour of the facilities, we went to a crystal shop. Mining is the main industry in Namibia, from diamonds to copper to uranium. There I saw the world’s largest single quartz crystal – it was about 15 feet wide by 10 feet tall. Huge! We were then granted free time to wander around Swakopmund. After that we went to the harbor, where our guide told us more of the history of Swakopmund. Our tour was mostly over after that, and we returned to the ship by a back road which took us by Dune 7. Dune 7 is the most famous of the dunes, it is over 300 meters tall… which is almost 1000 feet! The “dune sea” is beautiful. There are so many varying shades of orange, brown, and yellow. We stopped at Dune 7 and got out. Isaiah and I climbed the dune, but the sand was soooooo hot. I unfortunately was wearing sandals, and got little blisters on my feet. As you climbed, the dune got steeper; each step I took I would be sent halfway back as the sand would mini-landslide and pile on top of my foot. It was a lot of fun though, and the view was worth it.
After the return trip to the ship, Isaiah and I dusted ourselves off and headed on foot into the town of Walvis Bay (pronounced Val-fish Bay). It was early evening, and there wasn’t much going on in town. It was nice to walk around though. We came back to the ship and got ready to go out to dinner. I met up with friends and we decided to walk to The Raft restaurant, located on the lagoon. It was a beautiful restaurant built on stilts over the water. It was about an hours walk with a group, but its hard to get 12 people to stay on track. It was crowded when we got there, but we found a table big enough to fit all of us. The tables were picnic-style benches. The Raft is famous for having African food, stuff I would never get to try in the United States. I split a meal with Andrew, and we had warthog for appetizer, and two steaks for our main course. The steaks were ostrich and oryx (also known as gemsbok). It was awesome!! The warthog came in a salad, and was delicious. There was a lot of other stuff mixed in, so I’m not exactly sure what just warthog tastes like. The ostrich was delicious; it is a red meat but had a consistency of chicken. It was very tender. The oryx was my favorite though, its one of the best steaks I have had. It tastes pretty much like a steak, but very tender and it was served in a tangy sauce. I shared with all my friends, and in return got bites of crocodile, springbok, and Namibian prawns. Being a former German colony, Namibia is the “country of Jagermeister” and the girls of the table were treated to shots by some local Namibian boys at the next table over. We became friends with them, and had great conversations. They all speak English, which makes it much easier to communicate. It was interesting to hear some of the stereotypes they had of Americans. I was surprised by how racist they were, there is a big difference between the white and black communities in Africa. They are separated by where they live, where they work, and income levels. However, Namibia is still a young country, and I have faith that over time things will become more equal. We had a lot of fun with the Namibians, and too soon it came time to go back to the ship. I love to meet new people in other countries! So far I love everything about Namibia, and I have only been here one day. Instead of quenching my thirst for travel, this trip is making me want to keep traveling forever…
Marrakech, Morocco
Marrakech, Morocco
At John the photographer’s suggestion, Heather, Francisco, and I took the 6:50 a.m. train down to Marrakech. He says Marrakech is his favorite city in the world. Rabat is the capital of Morocco, Casablanca is the “economic capital,” and Marrakech is the “cultural capital.” Marrakech (which is the French spelling, it is Marrakesh in English) is the third largest city in Morocco, but for hundreds of years was the largest city in ancient times. The population now is a little over one million, and Marrakech houses one of the largest open markets in Africa. There is a square called Djemma el Fna in the middle of the old medina (old walled city). Vendors sell their wares: slippers, clothing, belts, teapots, lamps, tandoors, tajiks, art, and many many other things. There were easily 1000 vendors in the whole medina. The main square is filled with orange juice vendors and men selling nuts and dried fruit. Everyone tries to get you to buy their wares, since many of the shops sell the same stuff, and can be rather forceful when trying to get you into their store. It can be a little overwhelming.
We ended up walking 9.1 miles that day, a girl in our group had a pedometer. I feel like I saw most of the city in one day. It was raining in the morning, but it cleared up by noon or so. We walked through the city center to get from the train station to the old medina, so I got to see a lot of modern Marrakech. We finally made it to the market, and immediately went to the orange juice vendors. They squeezed the oranges right in front of you, and it was some of the most delicious orange juice I have ever had. It was only 3 dirham, which is less than 50 cents! I also bought some peanuts with a candied coating and sesame seeds for snacks on the long sail to Namibia. We shopped around for awhile, looking at everything. I ended up getting tricked into getting henna on my hand, but it turned out to be a great experience. My friend was getting one on her hand, and I was waiting for her. I started talking to an older woman, who was a friend of the woman giving Aubrey henna. I told her multiple times that I didn’t want any, because they tend to charge exorbitant prices after they are done. I started conversing with the woman, and she was very interesting. She fluently spoke 6 languages, even though she had never been to school. She learned everything from tourists. Her name was Amina. She looked ancient, but she told me she was only 52 years old. Healthcare in Morocco is not widely available to those other than the upper class, and life in Morocco is a much rougher existence. She was missing most of her teeth, and had what looked like scars from a skin rash. We had a great conversation, she told me about her life and her daughters and about marriage ceremonies. She somehow, very sneakily, took my hand and started drawing henna. It was an intricate design, and I really liked it. Many other girls I saw just had flowers or their name written in Arabic. Amina drew a geometric design going from my wrist and up my middle finger.
When we were done, we headed up to get lunch… although I was still full from the night before! We had lunch on the third floor patio of a restaurant; we could see everything going on in the square below. It was fun to see other groups of SASers wandering through the square. After lunch, we wandered and explored some more until it was time to head back to the train.
We got a little lost trying to get to the Royal Palace, as we usually do. We figured the best way to get back to the train station was to skirt the cities edges, and then cut in on the main boulevard. While wandering around the cities edges, I looked left and saw a herd of camels! I called out to my friends and we ran across the street. The herders (owners?) of the camels were sitting under a tree around a fire. They did not seem to take notice of us at all. We walked right up to the camels, which were not scared of us at all. Heather was a little scared of them though! They made weird grunting noises, like they were getting ready to spit. We learned later that it is not a bad noise, and camels don’t even spit! It was late afternoon, and was a great culmination to an interesting day in Marrakech.
I had mixed feelings about Marrakech, and Morocco in general. It is certainly an interesting country, but there is a lot to take in. I thoroughly enjoyed myself, and would love to return some day. It definitely made me glad to have been born in the United States to wonderful parents! Especially as a woman, I kept noticing differences between the US and Morocco, and how many opportunities are presented to me. It reminded me that I need to take advantage of all these opportunities because I am so much more fortunate than so many people on this planet. I am so lucky!!! I also want to say THANK YOU again to my parents for working hard so that I can be so lucky!
Friday, February 13, 2009
Casablanca, Morocco
2/3/09
Casablanca, Morocco
We finally arrived in Casablanca! We arrived during the night, but were not allowed to disembark until 8 a.m. when our passports had been cleared. After grabbing our passports, I headed out into the city with a few girlfriends and the voyage photographer, John. Our first stop was an ATM to acquire some Dirham. One US dollar will buy 8.66 Dirham. However, prices of things are higher; for example a cup of coffee would be about 12 Dirham. Bartering is the main system of trade in Morocco, we even had to barter taxi prices! I found I am not so great at it; however since it is so common in many of the countries we are going to, I hope I will become much better at it. It was an interesting experience, I am used to seeing set prices and then deciding whether I want to buy it or not. In Morocco, it takes quite awhile to decide on the price. The key lesson I learned here is to offer a price much lower than what you are willing to pay, because the vendors will ask for a price 3 to 4 times higher than what the object is worth. Prices are determined by bartering back and forth. The second lesson I learned is to not be afraid to walk away if I think the price is too high. Even after 15 minutes of bargaining, if the price is too high you should walk away. This is also a good strategy because the vendors do not want to lose a sale, and will often consent to your lower offer.
We wandered around the souks, which are the markets in Morocco. The streets were narrow and winding with shops on either side. The area we were in was also residential, with sections of homes interspersing the souk. In Morocco, the outsides of homes are kept under disrepair to prevent robbery. However, if you look in the doors of some homes as people are walking out, you can see beautiful courtyards or decadent living rooms. Walking with John the photographer was very interesting because he frequently visits Morocco and is familiar with the city and culture. He told us that his favorite city in the world was Marrakech, a city southeast of Casablanca. Casablanca is a very modern city, whereas Marrakech stays truer to ancient Moroccan culture. After hearing that, Heather and I decided to skip the City Orientation of Casablanca, and head down to Marrakech the next day.
Around 5 pm, I met in the Union for my first SAS planned trip. It was Dinner with Moroccan Family. It cost $20, and may be the best $20 I have ever spent! The cost of the ticket was donated to charity, and wealthy Moroccan families cooked us a dinner. In the Union, we were split up into groups; I was in a group with 4 other girls. We were picked up by a man named Jawed and his wife. They had three children, an 18 year old son, a 14 year old daughter, and a 12 year old son. Their youngest son goes to the George Washington Academy, which is an American school. He speaks fluent English, French, and Arabic. The George Washington Academy was founded by Semester at Sea alums, which is how this family found out about the dinner. Jawed is an international businessman, and does very well for himself. We were picked up in a Jaguar! They were proud of how westernized they were, he had all the new Beyonce and Rhianna CDs. However, he was extremely excited when we wanted to listen to traditional Moroccan music. I am always very excited to learn about new cultures, and they seemed to be excited to have dinner with us. It was interesting to see how different they thought we would be. A lot of information they get about American culture comes from television, especially from MTV. I was more than happy to try to break those stereotypes.
As in Spain, Moroccans eat dinner late. We ate around 9:30, which gave us plenty of time to talk and get a tour of the house before dinner. They were very wealthy, and the house was enormous. There was a couch in the living room that could easily sit 40 people. I took a bunch of photos. Earlier in the souks, I had bought a traditional Moroccan Kaftan. Morocco is one of the only countries where a kaftan is the term for a woman’s dress, as opposed to a male’s robe. It is a beautiful light blue full length gown with gold embroidery. I wore it that evening, and it prompted Oma, the wife of Jawed, to show us her kaftans. They were absolutely incredible. While mine was generic, hers were made by a dressmaker to her exact specifications. One of her dresses had silver woven into the fabric, giving it a beautiful sheen. They were all handmade, with exquisite embroidery. I loved it! She then told us about the marriage ceremonies, celebrations that will last for 3 days and require multiple costume changes for the bride. They sound like a lot of fun!
Dinner was a four-course extravaganza. The first dish was Pastilla, something I recommend to everyone. I got the recipe, and I am going to try to make it when I get home. It is a dish of shredded pigeon (or chicken) with almonds, onions, and vegetables wrapped in filo dough (used in baklava), and then baked with cinnamon and sugar on top. It was delicious, it was slightly sweet, but still hearty. The second course was traditional Moroccan spicy meatballs in a tomato sauce with rice. Again, delicious. At this point I was filling up, but I couldn’t wait for the coming courses. The third course was also a traditional Tandoori Chicken dish, with lemons and olives. A tandoor is a clay cooking device that keeps a lot of the moisture in. We also had homemade French fries, which are surprisingly eaten very often in Morocco. They were thickly cut and home fried. To drink we had Coke, which is the main drink in Casablanca. There is a Coca-Cola factory on the outskirts of town that employs many of the city’s inhabitants. Coke is everywhere. For dessert we had fresh fruit. The oranges are perfectly ripe this time of year, and were some of the sweetest I have ever had. They sprinkled cinnamon on orange slices, which I recommend all of you try! It was soooo good, I am going to be substituting that instead of ice cream after dinner when I get home. I thoroughly enjoyed dinner, and especially the conversation. There is no better way to get to know people of a different culture than to sit down and share their traditional food with them. They seemed very excited to host us, they visited America last summer and had a great time. They started in New York, went down to Florida, then to Las Vegas, and to San Diego. I told them they should visit San Francisco, and they invited all of us to come back to Morocco. I might have to take them up on their offer!
Around midnight, we realized we had better get back to the ship. We had talked nonstop from the time they picked us up until they dropped us off. It was a wonderful, wonderful experience and will likely be a trip highlight!
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Gibraltar
2/1/09
Gibraltar
After sailing from Spain, we did not go directly to Morocco. We stopped over in Gibraltar to take on more fuel and supplies. I was very excited about this because I did not know we were going to stop in Gibraltar until I got on the ship. The ship did not dock, rather we anchored in the bay and a fuel ship came to load supplies. We arrived around 10 a.m., and fueling is supposed to be a 5 hour process. The seas were very rough, and although it was a mostly clear day, the wind was ripping across the ship. When we were still anchored in the port of Gibraltar at dinner time, I got worried and rumors started swirling around the ship. We were supposed to arrive in Casablanca, Morocco at 8 a.m. the next day, and we knew we had a long way to go. Unfortunately, the rumors turned out to be true. The seas had been too rough for the fuel barge to get close enough to our ship, and the fuel hose could not be inserted into our tank. They gave up in the late afternoon, and we had to bunker overnight until calmer seas in the morning. We all were terribly disappointed, because this gave us one less day in an already short stopover in Morocco. I was disappointed; I wanted to be able to call Kyle on his birthday, but we wouldn’t get to port until it had passed. Although I hear he had a good birthday anyway!
To make up for the delay, Semester At Sea organized a number of fun activities. We watched the Superbowl live! However, because of the time difference, it didn’t end until 3 a.m. I stayed up to watch the whole thing, since there was no need to wake up early the next day! It was such an exciting ending! The Dean of Students for our ship is a HUGE Steelers fan and has been talking up the game since we departed from the Bahamas. It was a funny game, because for some strange reason we could not get an American or English broadcast of the game. We watched the game with German announcers; there were also no commercials, which tend to be a highlight of the game. Were they funny this year?
Gibraltar was a beautiful place, and it afforded me my first views of AFRICA. I was so excited!! The gap between Europe and Africa is a straight 8 miles wide, so you can easily see both continents. There is a mountain range along the northern coast of Africa, and they looked beautiful across the water. Seeing Africa so near made me even more eager to get there. The European side was also beautiful, and we anchored only about a kilometer from the famous Rock of Gibraltar. It was much much bigger than I expected, whole cities are built at the base of it. There are over 200 Barbary Macaques that live on the top of the mountain, but we were too far away to see any of them. The rock is a striking view; it rises sharply from the sea. It is a monolithic mass, meaning it is only one piece of rock; rising 426 meters (nearly 1400 feet) tall. I wish we hadn’t spent so much time there, (I wanted to get to Morocco!) but it was certainly an interesting place to spend a couple days!
Monday, February 9, 2009
Sevilla, Spain
Morning came too quickly after a late night, and Heather, Max, and I rose in time to try to meet friends near the Catedral. Unfortunately it is hard to meet friends in a foreign city without cell phones, so after waiting in the designated square for awhile we gave up. We did run into other SASers, and had lunch at a little place that Max recommended. Afterwards, we explored the Catedral. The Sevilla has the 3rd biggest Cathedral in Christendom, after the St. Peter’s and
Max and I crossed the river and headed back to his apartment for dinner with his roommates. Around 9, my friend Andrew called and said he and my 3 friends Beverly, Patricia, and Alex were on the train halfway to Sevilla. It was a spontaneous decision they made at dinner! We met them downtown for tapas around 11, and then found them a hostel. It started to rain, and we got horribly lost on the way to find a bar… but it was an excellent adventure. We found the bar eventually, and it was crowded! A few Spanish boys tried to flirt with me, which was incredibly fun. I got to practice my conversational Spanish, It actually ended up being a great conversation, and they didn’t care when I butchered conjugations of verbs and forgot words. Shortly after that conversation we left and headed to a club that Max had heard of called Aduana. We were the only Americans in the place. It was AWESOME. There was a fog machine, laser lights, and techno(ish). It was slightly eurotrash, but was way fun because we were actually in
Again, the morning came too soon, and I caught the
Friday, February 6, 2009
Sevilla, Spain
I awoke very early to catch the
After lunch, we wandered around some more. We found Heather, who had just finished a SAS tour. It was getting to be mid-afternoon, so Max, Heather, and the three boys I was with earlier, Steve, Hussein, and Keith, walked across the river to Max’s apartment. We played a few card games and rested. Most everything closes between the hours of 4 and 6 in Sevilla, for siesta. Shops open up again in the evening when people start coming out again. So around 6, we reemerged and went shopping! My nice shoes somehow got ruined in transit from
We tried to get more tapas around 7; we couldn’t get enough of them! However, no restaurants are open until 8. We sat in a bar and had a Cruzcampo, which is pretty much the only beer in
Cadiz, Spain
Hola amigos! Estoy en Espana! It is our first port and I am having an amazing time. It took a long time to cross the
We arrived in
After seeing some other SAS students in the plaza, we paid 6€ for admission to a museum on the history and ruins of
After more exploring, which was the theme of the day, we headed back to the ship for a quick siesta. Around 9 that night, a few of us went back out. The IT guy for our ship, named Bob (or Sparky), is an excellent musician. His goal is to play with bands in every country he goes to. He set up a jam session with some local jazz artists, who turned out to be excellent musicians. Before the show, we got more tapas and sangria. They were, again, delicious. At the show, which was more of a lounge and bar, I had my fist glass of sherry. Sherry is supposed to be the best in
P.S. I actually did start this blog post in
